... isn't in Venice. It's the nearby island of Burano.
It's about a quarter of a mile wide, has a population of under 3,000, and is accessible only by boat, which tends to keep out the much of the tourist riffraff. Burano is the very definition of charming. If you're ever in Venice I highly recommend hopping on the vaporetto and heading on over, especially if you get tired of the crowds in the Piazza San Marco.
[Administrative note: the cruise we're on is a little unusual in that it has no sea days at all, so finding time to write is going to be tough. I'm going to do my best to keep it up, but if the travelogue entries seem short and intermittent, that's why.]